What is the best way to make tea?

How long, how hot? Liyang Sheng, our t-columnist, explains what it means to make a good cup of tea

Illustration Liyang Sheng, @teeregen

I’m often asked how exactly I prepare my tea: how many grams I use, at what temperature, and for how long. This question is not always easy to answer. There are so many variables to consider—tea type is just one example—and I tend to brew more by 'feel' than by strict measurements.

When I was a student, I often asked my mother for Chinese recipes: ‘How much of this ingredient?’ ‘A little,’ she would say. I remember her often saying, ‘If you’ve used too much flour, add water. If you’ve added too much water, just add flour.’

Here in Germany, people usually prefer precise instructions, like conducting a chemistry experiment, with exact measurements and temperatures. In China, however, the principle of ‘Cha bu duo’ applies—meaning 'not missing much' or 'approximately.'

The difference might be rooted in Daoism, particularly the concept of ‘Wuwei’—active passivity. Wuwei means allowing things to unfold naturally without forcing them into a predetermined form. It’s a response to the flow of events (not to be confused with the ‘Wuwei’ I described in detail in issue 5 of t-Magazine).

The beauty of gongfu cha lies in the process: from observing the leaves to filling the pot, assessing the color and taste, and comparing successive infusions. At each step, we have the opportunity to be present and respond to the tea.

This is how we celebrate the diversity within the world of tea. It’s not just about the different types of tea; each season introduces new varieties, every batch has its own nuances, and, of course, each tea session is a unique experience. I often say this is the complete opposite of buying a bottle of soda, where we expect and demand a uniform, predictable result.

With tea, however, we can adjust each step through careful observation: if the leaves are delicate, I use cooler water; if they're tightly rolled, I increase the temperature. For a stronger brew, I let it steep a little longer. 'Wuwei' also embraces the acceptance of imperfection. Sometimes the tea turns out bitter, and I simply accept that.

With time, you gain experience and come to know the teas more intimately, developing your own preferences. Ask three tea drinkers, and you'll likely hear five different brewing methods. When someone else prepares the tea, you're often struck by how differently it tastes compared to when you make it yourself. A Japanese tea master once shared with me that she rarely offers advice on water temperature or steeping time because, as she put it, 'Everyone does it their own way anyway!'

Of course, some guidance can be invaluable, especially at the start of your tea journey or when exploring unfamiliar teas. With that foundation, you can then embark on your own path. Ultimately, the most important thing is that you enjoy your cup of tea.

A good article on Wuwei can be found at https://www.kyarazen.com/wabi-sabi-concept-wu-wei/

Liyang Sheng is a tea expert and columnist for t-Magazine. Under the name ‘teeregen’, she conveys tea culture in delicate, deeply researched images. You can find more on her website www.teeregen.de or on Instagram: @teeregen .